Best climbing webbing anchor reddit (if you are only TRing pre bolted sport lines, forget it. Thank you. For your personal anchor, a factor 2 fall (you're standing above where you're clipped as far as your PAS can reach then fall) can go up to 17 kN, meaning serious risk of breaking your personal anchor. Ideally I rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. You seem to have questions that would be best answered in person at the crag, rather than on reddit. I don't know where to find the washers and I'm also a bit nervous about the structural integrity of the webbing after the screw rips a hole through it. In most of the trapps, the anchors are well established enough that any impromptu looking anchors with sketchy tat are probably unnecessary stations and should be avoided (or in many cases will be removed). If you clip both strands, the webbing could fail in one place outside the limiter knots and the whole anchor would fail. Please check out John Long's Climbing Anchors 3rd edition. What's the best way to build a self-equalizing 3-point anchor, with all three points receiving equal weight distribution? [John Long promotes a 3-point equalette, but it doesn't seem to be distributed evenly. I am rigging a hammock, and I am using 1/2 inch webbing (soft, possibly hollow). It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. Love the Jive Ass Anchors. if it is, you did something else very wrong. I will bring along a 20' piece of webbing for natural anchors where I want to sling a rock. 6kN on one piece (this doubling is due to the piece holding the climbers force on one side and the belayers Mar 3, 2020 · 80 to 100 ft long. Both are very durable, but climbing-spec webbing is slightly stronger and more easily tied, and it holds knots more securely. I put cardboard between tree and sling, and simply lift the cardboard with a really long stick. You only use tubular webbing for climbing. Learn Basic Climbing Techniques: If you're interested in climbing, you can use the tubular webbing to practice basic climbing techniques like ascending and descending. The advantage of this method over the one shown in your second video is that with the basket hitch, the tension of the line is supported by 4 strands of anchor webbing, compared to 2 strands with the other method. 8kN on the entire anchor now we have a theoretical 3. If you only put the biner through one strand in the middle (as pictured) the webbing could fail in one place inside the limiters and the whole anchor fails. It handles abrasion much better than webbing and gives you more options for equalising anchors etc. I'd like it to be able to take up to 100 lbs at least. For top rope anchors i'll always use lockers because they tend to swing around a lot and you dont have someone there keeping an eye on the anchor at all times. A common scenario might be a couple of quick links on the bolt hangers, a few feet of webbing, and a rap ring (or two). Ultimately, learning the one-handed clove hitch and using a few med-large biners at your belay for the clove is the tried-and-true method for quick, dynamic personal anchors using the climbing rope. Webbing is made of fabric woven together into a flat strip or tube. ) Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 17 comments With 30m of rope out an 80kg climber falling . Sport anchors are usually two bolts with rap rings. i do pretty much always use a second tree or piece for the little trees you find on multi pitch ledges. I had the unfortunate experience of climbing on one back in the day. The home of Climbing on reddit. This is not accurate. If your anchor is too busy it just makes it more dangerous in the long-run because the person cleaning can get easily flustered by a crowded anchor. That's probably what I A PAS has separate webbing loops sewed in series, whereas a daisy chain is a single piece of webbing looped and then sewn at several point. This will hold your webbing together. The issue isn't safety - your party will all will be fine, and if someone else comes along, well, imo they should be able to figure out what happened and not reuse it. I recently picked up the Petzl dual Connect Adjust and while I've only used it a handful of times I'm already a huge fan, it is probably the best personal anchor I've ever used. In regards to toprope anchor building: I have both a 60ft static line and 60ft webbing. Bring an end through the two webbing loops until you are at this point. Without extending your anchors over the edge, you're putting a ton of wear on your dynamic climbing Other great anchors may include things like 1 locker on a piece of webbing, tension hitched around a tree. Because of webbings profile several common knots work a lot less well in it. In the case of toproping off two draws, clip them from different sides of the rope so both gates are not facing the same direction. Reply reply I am a new recreational climber climbing MRS. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. Flat webbings are what you typically see on your backpack straps. They sold me 5mm cord for the prussic and 7mm for the anchor. If there aren't bolted anchors available, you'll need pro to build your own. 10 votes, 12 comments. There are some bolt hangers that are designed to be used to rappel from (examples are round stock glue in bolts or Metolius rap ring bolts) but that requires 396 votes, 207 comments. Business, Economics, and Finance. It is tied in a loop with a double fisherman's (plenty of tail) and girth hitched to my hard points, with shelves made by overhand knots. The nylon won out by a huge margin and it equalized much better. Always inspect your equipment, and remember that $30 in dyneema isn't worth cheaping out on, and nylon webbing is probably fine for the toys in the dungeon. Find the middle point of the first two thirds. Rap is a common abbreviation for rappel. 12 votes, 20 comments. A PAS is perfectly fine for use as an anchor, but so is a clove hitch. " Not being experienced enough to properly swage cable at the custom length, I might use the chain used in chain anchors. for gear anchors i Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 4 votes and 25 comments If you are making an IDEAS anchor with three points, between two belay stations you've just burned 6 lockers. I am considering the following setup, for climbing single pitch crags of 8-15 meters on top rope (either tree anchors or bolted anchors): 60 meter static (aka semi-dynamic) rope, double figure-8 to the anchor Petxl micro traxion with prusikk backup. Both are static, the shop employee told me it's better not to use static for top rope anchors. But this could cost a bunch of money. The webbing or cordalette used to make the anchor should never go through the wires of the nuts as has been done here. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. Though, if you're using a sling for an anchor that you haven't been treating well or inspecting, then it's kinda your fault if you then assume it's definitely safe to use as an anchor. Runner/ Sling Aug 7, 2020 · You could also extend the masterpoint using your tie-in and belay with the GriGri in guide mode when the anchor is far back form the edge, instead of using a Munter all the way back at the anchor. All anchors strive to be SRENE: Safe, Redundant, Equalized, Non-Extending. Webbing is really only good for slinging trees and boulders, and other than specialist high strength anchors isn't really used that much any more. Also, best practice would be to tie limiter knots above your MP, but in reality for a rap anchor it's fine. Posted by u/2N654Tog - 3 votes and 31 comments Posted by u/redfont - 14 votes and 16 comments Posted by u/Violent_Testicles - 6 votes and 12 comments Same here. I see a lot of pictures of people screwing through it with weird little domed washer things. The only thing I'd use webbing for is rap/bail anchors I plan to leave behind, and even then I tend toward rated accessory cord. The twist is needed if you want the anchor to be redundant. What crag are you looking at? That's not what I'm talking about. 5" polypropylene webbing. Top rope forces really should never come anywhere close to blowing a piece, but equalization over minimal extension! I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. It depends on how the set up is. 5m generates ~2. If I am sport climbing and am only doing a few laps on a route, the bolt are evenly spaced, equal, and solid, I will use two quickdraws. Natural anchors far back from the edge you will need lots of 1" webbing or static rope. This is when you can actually factor-two your personal anchor and snap a biner. When you climb, you need the anchor to withstand a factor 2 fall. Nice looking knot jam on the left. Use the rest of the webbing for a second anchor leg. Emergency Repairs: Keep some webbing on hand for emergency repairs, such as patching up gear or creating makeshift straps. 20m or so of static rope might be a more sensible purchase. So: first tree > webbing > cord with webbing sheath and tied masterpoint > webbing > second tree. the guides i learned from seemed to be of the opinion that trees are even more stable during ice season because the frozen ground makes it harder for them to tear out. I prefer using the static line over webbing personally, as it's easier to work with and more versatile. Tubular Webbing: This same anchor could be build with ~6 ft of webbing and a 15 ft section of static cord. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. But to surf maaaan this webbing is incredible. . GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. The extension was, well, an extension No Extension in SERENE refers to the shock of one part of the anchor if another part fails. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. At least 3 but 5 is better locking biners. Monolithic anchors are OK - depending on the size. If I, say, dropped my usual nylon cord, I think I'd reach for the 16mm nylon tubular webbing before skinnier dyneema. Given that you're supposed to replace any soft gear after 5 years, I assume that I need to buy some runners. Needless to my climbing partner and I educated his buddy who talked a real good game but thought 30 feet of 3/4inch webbing overhand-knotted to a bomber chain-link fence post was well within acceptable practice. Maybe it's safe, but it's a knot I've used a lot to secure things (sails) for the reason that it's extremely easy to untie. It is referred to as a "basket hitch", and it is the standard way to use a circular sling. Edit: "You can build an anchor with just your climbing rope and a knot that yields two loops (like the double figure-eight. Plus it cost less than five bucks for the webbing. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. I am looking to make a pas in order to free up other gear I currently use. Otherwise I use a cordo or double length sling. O&O is referring to two biners that the toprope runs through. Better to put the wear on a cheaper piece of gear and save my static. There is never sense in cluttering your anchor with more than you need. Crypto The angle subtended at the central anchor by the nylon slings/webbing to the roof beams, is almost exactly 90 degrees (though it looks more in the photos) which means that the force on each of the two roof-beam anchors will not exceed 70% of the weight of the climbing wall, according to the best information I could find. The CE tags on the webbing say 0639, which date them to 1999, source. I went to an outdoor shop and said I wanted cord for a top rope anchor cordelette and an prussik knot. Double up 1" tubular webbing (mil-spec is cheap), tie a knot like a cordelette anchor. I have 1 inch tubular webbing and 7 mm accessory cord. Best Use Cases: Flat webbing is commonly used in applications that require higher strength, such as climbing harnesses, load-bearing straps, cargo straps, and seat belts. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. You will typically use a 2. Best methods are either bring a long some static rope or a long piece of webbing and/or cord. Friction generated by a moving rope is what weakens the sling. As climbing has entered the 21st century too many of us have forgoten the importance of these relationships. When I went climbing this past weekend, a friend of mine tied a rope to a tree to use as a personal anchor while he approached the cliff face to create our master point. I trusted it, but I was curious what other thoughts were out there on non-climbing certified webbing, like tow straps. It was used like any other webbing would be in anchor building, and is rated for greater weight (10,000 lbs minimum breaking strength) though it wasn't certified by any organization. I learned on a Blake's hitch, moved the Blake's to a split tail and recently got my hands on a Zigzag. For example, at Otter Cliff in Acadia National Park Maine USA, the park service has installed some large stainless steel eyebolts made out of 5/8" or 3/4" stock. That's why rap rings/chains exist. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments I would recommend the method in the first video. There is a high risk of cutting your rope if you thread it directly through the bolt anchor. The double fisherman's is easy to untie, but it doesn't hold in webbing. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. Lead a pitch, anchor yourself in with slings (easiest), PAS, the end of the rope or whatever you decide to use, bring the follower up. I posted this above, but in the gunks there really aren't many times when adding more tat to a bad anchor is the best choice. 5 cm (1 in) wide tubular webbing to build an anchor. Cordelette (6mm): Pros: My favorite. To try to answer your actual question, the two main types of rock anchors are (1) gear anchors, and (2) "natural" or "wrap" anchors where you tie a sling/rope/webbing around some object (tree, chicken head, boulder, etc) that's big/strong enough to handle the fall force. Thanks for the tips! Hi r/climbing-I have come seeking your knowledge of knots. Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. Here are some guidelines to consider: Anchor Building and Rappel Considerations: The length of webbing you carry should be sufficient to build strong and secure rappel anchors. Equalized webbing anchors is always best, however if you have an established anchor point, on pretty much a flat wall, I don't see too much of a problem with it my only concern is that the biners don't lock. An equalette works well as a self-equalizing 4-point anchor. 2 super bomb proof anchors, 3 is best. Likereally high. (REI typically carries only climbing spec tubular webbing. I love my canyoneering rope and pull cord as opposed to climbing rope because: -Weight and size matter when you are squeezing through slot canyons, and packing and hiking to the next rappel. 12 votes, 36 comments. We have some pitches here in Squamish that near 60m. Webbing is great as long as it isn't over a sharp edge. You can build an anchor just about anywhere at the lake with a set of hexes and a 25-50 foot piece of static rope. 1. one tree if it's solid and fairly large and doesn't have massive erosion around the roots or anything. If you have other suggestions I am open. Would cut off most of that tat and leave the 1 or two best slings and add one of my own. And yes we are scared of falling. This is the best way to improve your knowlege and skills safely. Hi all, I'm fairly new to climbing, but I got a set of older BD quickdraws from a friend. Hey climbit, I have about 250' of mil spec climbing webbing and I want to chop it up into various lengths I can use to build natural anchors (bought… This weekend I was climbing a pillar (the one on the Eagle Lake Buttress traverse, if you are familiar with it). A static rope allows you to connect and extend those components, wrap boulders/threads, and transition to rappelling quickly and safely. Cut some of the webbing and slip the cord inside so that the webbing acts as an edge protector. If a spare locking carabiner isn't available, be sure the gates are opposed, and add a third carabinerI have done my share of toproping, and whenever a locking carabiner is unavailable, I always A rope is going to reduce pretty much any fall to 5-7 kN. Is there any reason - aside from cost - to exclusively carry alpine draws over quick draws? 18 votes, 43 comments. Most times I use the webbing trick I described to jalpp: "slip about a 4 foot length of 1" tubular webbing over your static line and tie your masterpoint where the webbing is. Just replace the webbing for a couple bucks. Climbing Anchors by John Long 3rd ed, page 173: Connect the rope to the anchors with two opposed carabiners, at least one of which is locking. But to really enjoy it you need a lot of tension. That way you get redundancy at the loop and an extra protective "sheath" over your knot. He tethered himself onto this anchor rope using a prusik knot connected to a carabiner which was clipped onto his harness belay loop. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. On spires like this there are no anchors on top. In terms anchor-building materials, you’re good to use cordelette, webbing, nylon, dynema, or the rope. I am looking to tie a loop knot into the line to run a biner through, and so I went with the alpine butterfly as it shouldn't lock up. (Wire is too sharp) Each piece of pro should have a carabiner for the webbing to slide safely through. To get some tips on equalization as well, check out the book Climbing Anchors by Long/Middendorf, although it's geared more towards anchors for multipitch trad/aid climbing. They all have pros and cons, but all are safe when used properly. The best option would be to bring quick links (rated for climbing!) that you can attach directly to the bolts to then thread your rope through or use a couple carabiners to do the same. Used mainly for sport - cleaning routes and on multipitch raps. It does when you pull it. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. If its crappy near the top of the cliff face it can be safer to set the bolts further back but into something solid. Get more webbing (assuming 1" tubular) and a length of 8mm cord. This anchor is equalized, but fails all other Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 28 comments It's the safest and best. Some people use 5mm but it just looks freaky, especially running over sharp edges. I would absolutely never clip into a chain sennet. Just go out and try it. Anchor points are really high not to touch slackling in the middle toh. This is a solid set up for me and allows me to do any anchoring I need to. There is a difference between an anchor for abseilling and an anchor for climbing. Rope is more abrasion resistant. The pillar is about 10 square feet and flat on top. Posted by u/ReverendWilly - 23 votes and 88 comments For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). I second the recommendation to seek out instruction. Many anchors in J-Tree are extremely far from the edge and need extending. Pages 154 - 158 deal with off axis loading of cordelette anchors with both nylon and high tensile tape. There are 2 types of webbings — tubular webbing and flat webbing. "You only use 4 locking biners! what! I use 10!" to "You use locking 'biners! What a pussy!" You already have some webbing. Picked up a few anchor books and just want somewhere to practice anchor setups. The main situation that people make anchors for is the internet wanking that comes over any specific picture of an anchor that is released. You can read and watch as many videos as you'd like to familiarize yourself with basic protocols but there is no substitute for first hand experience from an expeienced mentor. I am using a webbing sling loop in a basket (pic attached) to move the ascender far enough away from my body that I can use the tail of the rope to body thrust up the line (and auto tend slack). To be honest the lack of knowledge from the employees has got me wondering. If you buy static rope you can get a 60m length or just have a shop cut you a length from the spool. Divide your rope into thirds. it's 1. If there are rappel anchors simul rapping is usually just riskier for no reason. It has two glue-in anchors on the back side and two newer bolted anchors on the front side. Build your webbing anchor, but instead of tying a water knot to join the webbing, tie two loops that almost join. In that case, use two quick-draws, lockers on the chains and revolving lockers for the rope. You are aware of this, right? When you abseil you are seldom going to significantly increase the load on your anchor. If you haven't killed yourself climbing sport routes yet you should be OK. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. Thats expensive and a waste of resources. -as you know, canyons are terrible on your gear, canyoneering ropes survive this better -static ropes may or may not keep stress off of sketchy anchors While it wouldn't be my first choice, I'd expect hollow 16mm webbing to work for a third hand backup to a descender, though I'm sure choice of knot is important. In this case if one strand of the doubled up webbing failed, then there's be no dynamic shock to the anchor so it passes this part of SERENE. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. A knotted sling will still hold 15+ kN. Just be sure to redirect the brake strand if you want to lower your climber with the GriGri in guide mode. Also try to minimize the amount of biners and webbing that you use; less points of failure, although I would certainly assume that that anchor wouldn't fail any time soon. 9kn peak force, or 650lbs force on the anchor Assuming perfect equalization each anchor takes ~325 lbs peak force This is ~75% of the assumed breaking strength of each leg of the anchor You generally want anchors to experience no more than 50% of assumed max load haha true that, climbing with someone with DIY gear. We have closer face climbing but most of my practice comes from the gym. Now lets look at the common scenario of clipping a part of your anchor to "reduce the fall factor" you have now doubled the amount of force on that singular piece; previously we had 1. If you make your own slings, tie your nylon webbing with a water knot that has long tails (at least 2 The appropriate length of webbing can vary based on the specific routes you're climbing, the nature of the anchors, and your personal preferences. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. The way I set up tree anchors is I use 40 ft of webbing (I prefer webbing to static rope because the webbing is flat and won't abrade the tree as much and cause less erosion of the bark) wrapped around the trees 3 times and the ends tied together with a water knot. true. Threading rope directly through the bolt anchors is NOT the best thing you could have done, and if the people you're with told you differently, you shouldn't listen to them. Bulk webbing is only available in nylon. Looking for good material on specifically sport climbing anchors (bolted routes), book, videos, blogs etc I'm a beginner at this, never did multipitching and I want to get educated! (I see that the Craig leubbet and Jonh long books are very recommended but I'm not looking forward to spend 20€ on a book that is mostly trad and alpine anchors Buy some 6 or 7mm accessory cord and make a Purcell Prussik. Easy to add a finger size cam backup in the crack below the knot jam. Kind of depends on the area but a length of 50' webbing should be plenty. ) Webbing Material. Proper equalization of the pieces in the anchor is FAR more important than minimizing extension in the event that a piece fails. If its a gear/natural anchor, take a class or get an experienced person to show you. Occasionally I will need to anchor on trees more than ~20ft… Tubular webbing is significantly cheaper which I think accounts for its popularity in the US, but in general, yes, I agree with your assessment. Lather, rinse, repeat. Like 4-5m high. If setting up a toprope on webbing or cordalette, the two biners attached to the anchor for the rope to run though should be facing opposite directions Utilizing the rope in the anchor also uses up a lot of rope, which may be an issue on longer pitches. That anchor is fine. I'd assume a flat piece of board with several holes for bolts may do the job? The thing is, where I live its over an hour drive to the nearest crack. Look at the second edition of "climbing anchors" by John Long. Crypto 82 votes, 66 comments. Connect it with a quicklink. If its an accessible anchor just use opposing draws (one made of two lockers is safest) as long as the rope isn't rubbin over an edge too bad. Only way down is the rope stung over the top of the spire and a climber on each side single strand rappelling on one strand using the weight of the other climber to keep the rope in place. This is for a wide variety of TR anchors, set pro, tied off boulders or solid trees) I use an 80 foot piece from Nomad I got cheap cuz it's so short. A quad works well as a self-equalizing 2-point anchor. It's also used in situations where the webbing needs to lie flat against a surface, such as in backpack straps or webbing belts. I have seen plenty of top rope areas that you have to build anchors 20+ feet away from the cliff, especially when ice climbing. And i'm near touching in the middle. A rope doesn't move while rapping. xjpc duir ppyl cymyx htmi mzt xcfbu aofx fpht uzyvutw jkpds swjzx hfvct clde wfkpof