Sliding x vs quad anchor. For flexibility, nothing beats sliding X.
Sliding x vs quad anchor. Quads and Fixed Leg Systems.
Sliding x vs quad anchor A couple points IMO: I give the strands between the pieces a twist (like you would do for a sliding X) then if a leg fails it can't slip through Or to belay directly from for that matter. The load-sharing capability has more range. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. Pull the two loops downward between the bolts and in the intended direction of pull (direction of the climber). Sep 1, 2008 · I don't see the point of them on multi pitch routes even if it's a sport route with bolts for every station. It is good. The individual bolt backups prevent extension and provide redundancy for the sliding-x, which otherwise is a single . A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. Context and purpose of the equalette to be the quad, which is effectively a sliding-x variant that features double the normal number of strands of material in the rigging (four strands vs. Do any of you guys double… "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loopMost of the elaborate rigging systems are of little use Dec 30, 2015 · The concept is probably fine, but I think your photo is a sliding x with limiter knots, not a quad. Hence the Apr 27, 2016 · Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. However, a quad makes sense to some people when every anchor is bolted, because you can pre-tie the quad and leave it tied all day. But if you're leading in blocks, this makes no sense at all. With the sling having the doubled over strands (in a quad configuration) it might be tough to maintain clean knots versus just using a cordolette. 3. 5 kN. Derek DeBruin . This is often due to friction in the - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. 7. Uses very little material. 12kN. Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. Conclusion. (Photo: Jay Philbrick Photography) Pro climber and guide Genevive Walker demonstrates how to build a quad anchor. the no extension thing is not that important as you have 60m of stretchy rope out there so you are not really "shock loading" the anchor. This anchor utilizes the "Sliding X" and knots on either side to eliminate extensions. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). Quad Anchor . Contrary to the sliding-X method, this method is more complex to make. For guides it provides a lot of plusses but is slightly more work to create, and can be a pain to untie. Since then, the quad has increased significantly in popularity and use. In the normal course of events, only the sliding-x is loaded, providing a nominally equalized anchor. The sliding x sling gets cut. It works. a. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. You will need a sling for every pair of anchor pieces, so a three point anchor will require two slings. The classic sliding- x system fails to create a fully redundant anchor as cutting the rigging material (such as from rockfall) in one location causes complete anchor failure. Anchor Extensions Jul 11, 2020 · It’s redundant. The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. While a quad can split a load fairly evenly between two arms, a sliding X might only achieve a 70/30 split since the twist in the sling at the master point creates friction which puts most of the load on one of the two arms. To create a sliding X: Clip a single sling to the carabiners at each anchor point. I think I like quad anch Mar 3, 2025 · You can leave your quad rigged for a long day out. With an appreciation for this reality, many climbers gravitate toward “self-equalizing” anchoring systems. jg We built a full anchor and broke it, over and over again on our Bolt Buster concrete slab and then again on our slack snap machine. If you can solve for that, it's probably Ok. Jun 22, 2021 · I've collected some of my thoughts and comments from those threads and put them in this explainer to shed some light on the risks associated with sliding rigging systems (i. Sliding X; Equallette; Quad; 6. It makes up for the short comings of each system, while incorporating their strengths to produce a more SRENE anchor. Fast. The answer you’ve been waiting for (but wont get). One of the criticisms of the cordalette is after you've tied the master knot, you have potentially poor equalization if you deviate from your set Advantages and Disadvantages of the Sliding-X Photo 1: Advantage - When anchors are off-set, the sliding-x self-equalizes. Finally, an equalette with unequal length arms performed similarly to a sliding-X with equal arms, and both of those saw the lowest difference in forces, around 0. Jul 6, 2020 · I'm glad to see people are enjoying the benefits of this anchor. Magic X and quad configurations have become popular, but their ability to self-adjust to variable load direction is not perfect. Dec 1, 2023 · Two-Legged Quad Anchor. Tie all four strands of the sling together in an overhand knot or a figure 8 knot on a bight. Clove hitch the crap out of it and super 8 the masterpoints for an all points, inter connected, super equalized enough, strong and fast anchor. When I build a quad, I often use two bolts for anchor points, a quad length (240cm) sewn sling, two non-lockers for the legs, and lockers for the master point. Things then get even more complicated when you use a quad to create a 3-point anchor, as the load is split not once but Feb 26, 2018 · I don't see the point of them on multi pitch routes even if it's a sport route with bolts for every station. ). Easy to untie, etc. In this episode I cover the sliding X anchor also known as the magic X anchor. Consequently, a sliding-x is commonly built with "limiter knots" which achieve redundancy while minimizing the Aug 16, 2021 · Building a Sliding X Anchor. 2. e. Sliding X vs BFK is mostly sewn-sling-centric but you can grab about 8-12 meters of a 6mm or 7mm accessory cord and now you have the flexibility to create any type of anchor. Girth Hitch Anchor . Quads and Fixed Leg Systems. The Quad Is Awesome/Terrible: Examining the Applicability of Sliding Anchor Rigging Methods . If you have any recommendations for any other types of sliding X a I use the sliding-x with limiters for my top rope anchor, and I see a few benefits over the other options: given the same sling/cordellette length, it's twice as long as the quad, alleviate rope drag and crossing over ledges the twist makes it more redundant than a pure equalette, almost as much as a quad Apr 13, 2017 · The equalette is the evolution and combination of the cordalette and sliding-x. I prefer master point anchors because they are much quicker to tie than a quad. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). Setting up Your Quad Anchor Nov 13, 2014 · As far as the sliding-x with limiters, according to Mammut on their 240cm 8mm sling pamphlet, an overhand reduces the efficiency of the sling by -54%. This pre-equalizes the anchor and makes each anchor point independent of the other. Quad is a really useful tool for top rope in areas where top anchors are bolts with small spacing between them, otherwise, the V angle of load will increase the force on anchor. Standard overhand on a bite V Anchor . Research conducted and compiled by Thomas Evans shows that with static loads, LD anchors (LD= load distributing, AKA “self-equalizing” anchors) don’t distribute the load equally between legs. . Quad anchors are mainly used for sp A cordelette with equal arms and a sliding-X with unequal arms performed similarly to each other, with a much better difference in force between arms, about 1 kN. "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loop. When a sliding X self-adjusts, as it does when the anchor is pulled off-axis, friction created by the twist at the master point causes a greater share of the load to be placed on one of the two arms. Here, you need to double your cordellete so that it has four equal strands of length. 46 = 10. I usually use a few draws at the top for sport but a pre tied quad is very fast. the reason you want to have the middle loops a decent size is so your anchor equalizes and by shortening the distance between the knots you shorten the direction of pull degrees Apr 13, 2020 · The sliding X is simple to set up: take a sling, clip it to two pieces, put a twist in one of the strands, and clip a locking carabiner through both the twist and the other strand. Clip the sling into two bolts. Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. In general - Quad is the cool new anchor people like to talk about. If you must do so, make sure you have clipped the carabiner through the sling in exactly the same way as the original carabiner. A carabiner comes unclipped, in which case extension occurs and the sliding x catches as designed. The sliding X consists of carabiners on the two bolts connected by a sling or cord (at least 120cm), with limited knots and a twist for redundancy. A 4-point sliding x, with individual backup connections to each bolt made with whoopie slings, 11/16” webbing, or similar. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, adjust as load to the anchor changes direction (see Figure 1). However, not wanting to make this mistake, I was testing with my own 240cm sling and getting very different results. There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional Personal anchor system. two strands, hence the “quad” moniker; see Figure 1). I've been using the girth hitch masterpoint most of the time the last few years. Rope vs Webbing. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. The main point will still be able to self equalize by sliding and, should one of the two points of protection pull, the remaining point of protection This second in a multi-episdoe series on Anchors. PRE-EQUALIZED. That means that if you make a sliding-x out of it with overhand limiter knots your sling is now only rated at 22kN * . An anchor component fails, in which case extension occurs and the sliding x still catches as designed. An additional and in my opinion slightly better anchor for 2 bolts is the quad. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. Jul 11, 2016 · BoulderCharles wrote:The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. Posted by u/trollhawk - 2 votes and 23 comments An overhand knot in your sling will equalize the anchor pieces in a basic sense. A relatively common debate among certain segments of recreational climbers, both in-person and online, is the value of sliding rigging systems for climbing anchors. Although it is not used much The quad usually is a sign of official instruction by guides. 2) It can be difficult to clip another carabiner into the main point of a sliding-X when it is weighted. quad, sliding x, etc. The quad, which has no twist, achieves more equitable distribution – somewhere in the region of 45 Jun 30, 2023 · A strong anchor thus is only as strong as the component that is holding most of the weight most of the time. This anchor design can also be adapted to use premade quad anchor slings. Jun 12, 2021 · 1. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor is NG if you're leading in blocks, or worried about escaping the belay in a crisis. My hope is to provide a bit more comprehensive reference on the topic instead of the pieces of the conversation that regularly appear here. Photos 2 & 3: Disadvantage - If one of the bots fails, then the sliding-x anchor will "extend", which means the anchor point will travel down the length of the webbing until it stops, which will increase the impact force on the remaining bolt. Testing shows if one leg fails or gets cut (rockfall) the hitch will not slip! Compare this to a “sliding-x” anchor with the same length sling and this is definitely better if direction of load is close to uni-directional. This is a fantastic choice at the summit of a sports climb where there are two bolts side by side. The document has moved here. In this episode, Mike goes over three examples of a sliding X anchor using Dyneema slings. A quad anchor set up to belay up your partner on a standard two-bolt anchor. Jul 15, 2020 · The realities of self equalizing anchorsThe terms “self-equalizing” and “load distributing” have often been used to describe anchor systems which are rigged in such a way that they have some ability to adjust laterally under load and align themselves with the direction of the force applied to them, purportedly maintaining an equal distribution of forces on each anchor leg. The downside to the sliding X is that it is not as strong as a quad (a single dyneema is significantly weakened when knotted), and it doesn’t self-distribute nearly as well either. Sliding X . That said, a knotted dyneema sling is unlikely to be the weakest connection in a distribution-critical anchor (the most likely use case) where primary anchors are Given the worst-case scenario for each anchor type (partial anchor failure resulting in extension for Sliding X, off-axis loading resulting in zippering of pieces in a Cordelette), as well as identical theoretical anchors and forces for each comparable setup, which is stronger? Someone good with physics, and a little free time, should be able And, contrary to popular belief, neither are “self-equalizing” anchors (e. However, it must be tied in a way which meets the following three criteria: 1) Each piece of gear only takes around 50% of the total weight of the belay. 2) The anchor is set up for the direction that the 'pull' will come from. g. be/she8vH1DCBU and at around 13:30, they talk about how you have to choose specific strands out of the 4 to twist into the X in order for the anchors to be redundant. Feb 9, 2020 · See this video on how to build a sliding-x. A sliding X is dynamically equalized: if you pull the locking carabiner in different directions, the sling will shift so that both pieces are (close to) equally The Quad Is Awesome/Terrible: Examining the Applicability of Sliding Anchor Rigging Methods . the Sliding-X and Quad). It’s “equalized” to the limitations of the physics. Chain Anchor . Feb 2, 2025 · Quad Anchor Method. Oct 15, 2022 · I saw this video, youtu. The only place o can see their functionality is in multipitch sport where you want a sound anchor to hang and belay off of. Moved Permanently. Just use your quad wherever you would otherwise be building a sliding x. The Death X - A great anchor, self equalizes. For flexibility, nothing beats sliding X. Quads most often utilize two bomber anchor points and a pair of limiter knots to construct a self-equalizing masterpoint. - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. This is the classic self-equalizing anchor. Clove Hitch Anchor . Unlike the cordelette, it doesn’t require re-tying at each stance. A much better alternative is to use the quad anchor. The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the route doesn’t wander. This setup limits (catches) the carabiners in the event that one side of the anchor fails. All would be perfectly safe. Feb 1, 2021 · Floating focal point (aka self-equalizing, equalette, magic X, sliding X, quad, etc) Rigging for a multi-point anchor where the focal point can adjust and move left and right under load. I'd like to hear your own feelings on what is the failure point of this anchor and why it's the oval biners? Personally, The sliding X is fine on two solid bolts, but then again, if both bolts are solid, why bother with a sliding X? You could use two long quick draws, a quad anchor, a masterpoint anchor, etc. This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. Two realistic possible cases here (things such as gremlins and murderous partners aside). A relatively common debate among certain segments of climbers, both in-person and online, is the value of sliding rigging systems for climbing anchors. Jan 1, 2015 · When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the climb, while remaining equalized. The sliding X is a relatively simple way to connect two anchor points, while creating a system that adjusts to the direction of pull. 2021 . The sliding X is another common anchor you might see, which is relatively simple and does not require any more gear than the BFK. Works Cited Sliding Anchor An Anchor whose Master Point can Oct 7, 2016 · Read an anchor building book if you haven't already and, if you can, find a more experienced friend to go through this with you in person. I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. Guides like it. 1. The difference here can be as much as 30/70%. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. phjhgjrygxelcruwqzdzizfmhjtgrbyeuzkdobaoieqlugodwj