Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes.
Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit.
That being said, I love cams.
Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. But for the record; things harder than I'll ever climb were established with nuts and hexes. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. Then go for the cams. 75. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Anywhere they work a cam usually will too though, so i don't use them too much, just once in awhile. Use 7 mm cord - it makes a huge difference in strength. 5 days ago · Micro nuts are climbing nuts that have been engineered to be extremely tiny. Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. 82 votes, 51 comments. I know the DMM nut color coding by heart now, but honestly I prefer the BD way of using the same color coding on both their cams and nuts. The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. The home of Climbing on reddit. Moved Permanently. Wired Hexentric 1. 6. Depends where you'll be climbing. 5 and #0. 28 votes, 22 comments. Note, once you use this thing, it is nearly impossible to untie so if you want spare cord for something else, I would buy extra and use bunny ear figure eights which you can untie. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. 5-2 of cams are very useful (I use BDs), but nuts are very versatile and many old school climbers can get by only on nuts while I plug in too many cams. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. For a university rock climbing wall, the chalk bag should still be useful. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. Learn how to use nuts and hexes. Use the side of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can the opposite way it went in. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 59 votes and 44 comments While there are several different types of passive pro, including hexes, chocks, and Tricams, the most common type is the nut, also called a stopper. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. A set from 0. They’re bomber when placed correctly, really light compared to cams, and just plain fun to place. Another upside of using strictly hexes and nuts is that if/when you decide to invest in cams you have a better understand of where works well for what kind of gear. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). Re-sling the hexes, though. A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. . American climber here who’s beginner rack started with BD nuts. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. Some of these climbing nuts can be as light as 4 grams but still hold 2kN. It’s fun and a learning experience to climb with different people; no one person knows all the ways to address all the interesting and diverse challenges you’ll run into when trad climbing. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. You'll need draws (standard quickdraws will do if you have em from sport climbing with spare slings to extend them if needed or alpine draws if you're buying from new) as well as slings and lockers. I would not use the locking carabiner, there have been significant advances since then. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. Feb 20, 2021 · I like looooong easy or moderate climbs that take all day even when moving quickly and I absolutely love hexes, tricams, and nuts. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. Apologies again for the firehose of comments, I like to nerd out about climbing nuts and hexes. You will gain more value in knowledge from that experience than the cost of the guided trip. The hexes and stoppers are worth keeping, but not useful on a climbing wall. Personally, I started with a set of BD nuts and a yellow and orange Metolius power cam. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. A dab of wood glue in the "teeth" of the t-nut (the ones that bite the flat piece, not the threads) isn't a bad idea to cut down on the odds of it moving. 3-1 (black->blue) weighs less than a #0. My opinions about a cam is that they are quicker to place, have much more room for a poorly judged crack width ("pretty sure its the blue hex, fuck, nope, lets try the purple, fuck that's way too big, maybe if i spin the blue one in this direction, shit my arm is tired, damn legs are shaking Next time you have a route with a long approach that uses a double rack, take the tricams instead of the second set. I set my Rockcentric hexes as hard as I can and they have never rattled loose during a climb. For example, a professional tennis player pretending to be an amateur tennis player or a famous singer smurfing as an unknown singer. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Same thing when I did own the Torque Nuts before I sold them in favor of the Rockcentrics. I can confirm that they’re inferior to most other nuts. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. Plus, a 2 level dip on Daeran would mean no revelation(s) and even slower Oracle spell progression. The Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are a popular choice, but the smallest sizes are only rated for direct aid. Nuts and hexes (although I dislike hexes) are perfectly adequate and safe. Oct 28, 2016 · “My best advice is to be open to new ideas and to learn new ways to tackle the challenges in front of you. Anyone who says that stoppers are all the same, have never climbed pitches that have finicky gear and aren’t protectable without good nut placements. Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. In the end for most use cases the halfnuts are probably fine but maybe not optimal. Worked perfect to cover plenty of placement options and get me comfortable before going full trad. com Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. You can hammer them into icy cracks. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. So I have been saving up money to start building a trad rack cause I want to start trad climbing. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. The hex is meant to be able to be placed in 4 different attitudes. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. Share gear, it's muuuuuuch cheaper this way too. When I started getting into trad, I thought I was gonna hate them, and was going to rely on mainly nuts, hexes, and tricams. The downside being that hexes are easier to place incorrectly. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. But logistically that's different than a simple scramble in my mind. Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. yosemite) then they are nice i think. 5” for six-sided hexes. If you’re not climbing much above 5. I think the torque nuts are a cool design and if I was wealthy I'd probably get some. So, one could argue that each hex has the benefit of being more diverse. The Phoenix (13a) for example. Read Time - 9 minutes. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. I haven't used their torque nuts but I've used other companies hexes a bit. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Grab a set of nuts to start and practice placement. I have a super standard rack, full set of WC nuts and WC cams from . I cut my teeth on the escarpment with a rack of BD cams (0. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. The document has moved here. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. I was wondering what would be a good size range for cams and how many nuts is enough nuts? I have money for about 6-7 cams and for the nuts I was planning 1-11 in normal nuts, 7-11 in offsets, a set of peenuts 1-5 and hexes, 1-4 A celebrity or professional pretending to be amateur usually under disguise. I carry a 5 m cordolette tied together with a double fisherman knot. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. 5. Set of nuts (black diamond stoppers or dmm wallnuts) possibly also a couple of individual large hexes. it's dangerous. 10a and you want bombproof security you’d do well to bring hexes. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. Hexes are completely different and mostly used as passive camming placements. May 2020. That being said, I love cams. A lot of the options for cutting cost on a trad rack don't actually save you money, just delay you spending it. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. The figure 8 is probably still good; but no one uses them anymore. Where as your standard nut has two. Maybe. Nuts are generally less reliable in diagonal cracks because they are not pulled directly into the constriction when weighted. Nuts Buying Guide. 5mm cord appears to be fairly common for this application, but use the thickest cord that will fit. Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. There are other useful hexes beyond Evil Eye and Slumber - Protective Luck and Fortune come to mind - and if you’re going for a Hex splash, it’s probably worth investing into the full kit since Protective and Fortune are also extended by Cackle. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. Trusting a cam is certainly easier than trusting a nut or hex. In my experience, they aren't so commonly used anymore. I can understand maybe soloing sections and then roping up for higher 5th class bits. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. Nuts work best in vertical constrictions, but they can also be placed in diagonal cracks. Jun 21, 2022 · Although I rarely carry hexes I personally think hexes are best in the sizes larger than standard nuts (DMM/WC No 11) and are super simplistic to place in their most basic orientations making them perfect for larger cracks. g. These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out but could still be used for aid climbing. I have specifically been looking at hexes for the very purpose of using instead of big cams for alpine climbing and I think it's a totally solid plan, and in the event that I ever need to bail on large gear I would much rather leave a big hex than a #4 cam. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. 4'-5' per length of cord, giving a loop somewhere in the 18" to 20" range is usually good, but this has a lot to do with your preference. My own 2¢ is that between . Basically, cheap, worse cams. (which is what torque nuts are). Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. 1. Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. If you have a lot of vertical/parallel cracks, cams are probably the best. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. I think they’re just what we buy here and then don’t think about it. The weight however can not be complained about at all In Valle orco, which is my go to climbing spot, thin cracks have a lot of constrictions and nuts work ok on them most of the time. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Those holds (in good gyms) are moved monthly or so. 4 to 3 Abalaks seems like a good way to expand my rack on the cheap especially on the smaller sizes of active pro. That being said this method is not for the feint of heart. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I like hexes. My best suggestion is to hire a certified climbing guide from a reputable guide service. It's very expensive to replace those regular nuts with offset nuts, to replace those hexes with cams, to replace those standard camalots with ultralights or totems, etc. People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. Posted by u/PulpFiction849 - 16 votes and 29 comments 1. Double Cap. Pay attention to which way the nut would be pulled in the event of a fall. I also instruct my second how to easily remove them. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Once I finally got out and started using some cams, I got hooked. Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. I mean most lines of cams (Friends, Dragons, Camalots) have the same color scheme these days. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . If there are a lot of varied cracks, nuts are probably enough for a lot of routes. Ughhhhh, the point of the hex has apparently been lost on everyone since they came out in the 70's. Posted by u/Horse_Glue_Knower - 5 votes and 29 comments I haven't used them for furniture, but they're what rock climbing gyms use to attach plastic holds to the plywood walls. Also, I love dmm alloy offsets and I think they're the best single piece of gear out there but they're not a replacement for regular nuts. My ideal rack is probably going to be a 2-1 ratio of cams to nuts, with other gear added as needed for different climbs. Consider getting some second hand wires and maybe even (gasp!) hexes before getting cams. 5 cam or over then it would be a financial decision for me. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. 550 votes, 31 comments. You really can do almost anything on passive gear. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. I don't believe it. If you plan to travel down to the gunks (worth it) buy a set of tricams (consider double pinks). Once placed you can set them fairly hard. I see a lot of climbers on Reddit suggesting just carrying offsets "because they work in all the same placements". And yes we are scared of falling. Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Posted by u/PaulDaPigeon - 5 votes and 23 comments One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. I love my torque nuts, but in the end it's best if you're familiar with as many types of gear as possible, so collect a variety (Including hexes which many people won't/don't know how to The back story to this post is that a friend argues that a hex could be places where a cam could. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. The video has to be an activity that the person is known for. If it could be pulled out, try a better placement. 5->3), a set of hexes and a standard set of nuts. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. mqyhivaevgmmvvvswzvojmcoigtyrjtgnqbntvosyal